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Tag: new

Pachinko

by on Sep.12, 2010, under Nishijin, Pachinko

Well, almost exactly one year since my last post …
Simply neiter had time to work on my projects nor really felt like it. But now the fever is back :)
But of course I started something new instead of finishing one of my other machines:
Last week I “accidently” got a Nichijin Pachinko machine in almost perfect working order, only missing the payout ball tray and the card bypass dongle.
Luckily I had all the tools at home to finish these parts, the ball tray is cut out of an old emergency exit light.
Now it’s nicely mounted on a wall in my living room.
Next will be to add a ball lifter to it for more playing fun, I’m thinking about building one myself either with a flipper coil or with an old jigsaw I have lying around … we’ll see how it turns out (if ever :) )

Sorry for the crappy images, but the HTC Hero is a nice tool for almost everything other than using it as a camera ;(

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Gigantor Wiring -> SCART

by on Sep.10, 2009, under Arcade, Gigantor

Since starting the Gigantor Project I destroyed 2 of my 2 Hantarex Arcade monitors :(
I was searching on ebay and other platforms, but didn’t find any Arcade monitors for sale, so I decided to add a SCART output to my Gigantor wiring to use an old and cheap TV as monitor.
Today I finished all the wiring for the Gigantor, I want to be able to use JAMMA and other PCBs so I decided to go with the Austrian “Novomatic” 50pin D-SUB as my main connector. I believe this should be the most durable type.
The finished wiring consists of one primary female 50pin D-SUB which can be connected to different PCBs via (still to do) converters. From this there are 4 main connecions:

  1. Video: 15pin male D-SUB connector wired according to the VGA standard
  2. Audio: Stereo female TRS connector
  3. Controlers: 38pin female Centronics connector with own pin assignment
  4. Mains: 9pin Connector to Hantarex US200

On the Video part follows a SCART connector which also needs +5V for switching the TV to RGB mode which is routed via Chinch connectors.

Today was the first test and YEAHHH … everything works perfectly … playing Arcade games on a 42″ Full HD rulez :)

Everything is wired in a way to replace any part at any time, for example it’s no problem to replace the SCART connector with an Arcade monitor connector, or completely replace the PCBs with a MAME computer.

At the moment I have no camera, but I will post some pictures at a later time.

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New project: Gigantor

by on Aug.14, 2009, under Arcade, Gigantor

Yeah, I know I seem to be unable to finish one project before starting the next one :)
Nevertheless I did it again. Since I bought together with a friend about 40 original arcade PCBs, I thought I’d need something to put them inside.
First I wanted to use one of my existing cabinets for this, but soon I realized I’d need something special because of 4 different connection systems (5 if you also count the MAME PC), portrait and landscape monitor setting and different controls layout and other ideas.
          gigantor So I was surfing the interwebs to get ideas for a cabinet design and I stumbled over the austrian “Gigant” System.
I really liked the “monumental” design of this case, but I was missing some of the more traditional elements, so I fired up my trusty ARCHline and modelled my own case.
It’s fairly big so a midsized monitor can be turned from portrait to landscape inside the case (I plan to make it motorized :) )
Contrary to the rendering I’ve changed the color scheme. While blue is my favorite color I decided to go with some kind of purple for the base and a nice grey for the top.
Some first work is already done on the case:

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Operation Bear arrived

by on Dec.19, 2008, under Operation Bear

And again a new family member :)

Operation Bear is a shooting game from 1987 equipped with a lightgun with “force feedback”. The game is a bootleg of the Taito Operation Wolf.

The case is in fairly good shape and electrically everything (except the sound :( ) is working.

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The data connector was broken from the monitor circuit board, but I was able to solder the connector to other soldering points on the board.

All pictures:

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